The toast truck will serve soft-ripened goat cheese

This month's Let's Lunch theme is Kummerspeck, a German word that means "grief bacon," the extra layer of fat one accrues from emotional overeating. This is a condition I'm familiar with, particularly this time of year. If I'm completely honest, in times of deep trouble, what I often crave most is a bag of potato… Continue reading The toast truck will serve soft-ripened goat cheese

Summer-fall hand pies: Mozzarella & tomato jam, Pear & smoky caramel

Pie is problematic. For one thing, it can be so many different things. It can be sweet, of course. But it can be savory, too. If it's sweet, is it filled with berries, apples, pears, plums, or rhubarb? Or maybe chocolate custard? Or peanut butter cream? Pecan, pumpkin? Ice cream?! And on the savory side,… Continue reading Summer-fall hand pies: Mozzarella & tomato jam, Pear & smoky caramel

Goat cheese panna cotta with mango foam

March. Neither lion nor lamb. It's a fickle fish this year, darting in one direction, then another, to the surface, then back under the weeds. Cold clear days, warm foggy mornings, sweet springing afternoons, hail, snow, rain, mud, ice. One day, a week ago, we had all the windows in the house open. Today, we're… Continue reading Goat cheese panna cotta with mango foam

Pain au levain

Well, here we are, November. You and I don't get along so well. I resent you for stealing my summer warmth. You blithely turn the sun off at 4.15 pm. You freeze the water in the goat's water buckets every night. You slither your brittle, windy fingers through the walls in this old house. What's… Continue reading Pain au levain

Roasted asparagus and sage salad (or, Making our own spring green)

Two days ago, the temperature reached into the 60s and, though we'd been granted the easiest winter in memory, we somehow all felt that an early spring was due us. Humans are like that. What little snow we had from the single late-season storm a week ago was practically melted. Then it rained. Froze. Iced.… Continue reading Roasted asparagus and sage salad (or, Making our own spring green)

Jewish Vegetarian Kishke

Kishke. There's nothing elegant or pretty about it. It's a homely dish of humble origins. Strictly peasant food, made from whatever was left over to throw into a bowl (meat or vegetables or both), combine with a filler (flour, barley, bread crumbs, or matzoh meal), color with paprika, and spice mildly with salt, pepper, and… Continue reading Jewish Vegetarian Kishke